Well, I'm stumped, CYA friends.

Bill Calfee

Gun Fool
Well, I'm stumped, CYA friends.



CYA gun fool friends:


Today I tore the Jewel down that was locking up on me a few days ago....


I tore it completely down so I could check every screw, spacer and every part of every lever.


DSC00796%20-%20Copy.jpg





I can find nothing wrong........( although there's something wrong)


No, it's not going back to Jewel.......I want to figure out what's wrong, and fix it myself...


______________________



So I put it back together, without the side plate, so I could see what was happening, and manipulated the trigger by pulling the shoe and pushing down on the transfer bar...


And it worked perfect.....


So I kept at it.......maybe 30-40 times, and it worked perfect....


I started to put it back together then decided to cycle it 10 more times to make sure....



After about three more cycles it locked up......solid.....right now it's locked up.......



Here's a picture of it..........



DSC00809.jpg




CYA friends, I'm going to leave it like this for now, cause I'm headed to the range to shoot my Canjar LP trigger some more.....


Do any of you with experience with the Jewel have any ideas......


I blew the picture up so you can see the details closely.....


Do any of you see anything, at all, that looks out of whack?



Your gun fool friend, Bill Calfee


_______________________________


PS:


By the way, there's a deep scratch near the top of the side plate lying beside the trigger....


This is where the point of the middle lever is scraping the side plate as the transfer bar works up and down.....


At first I thought this might be the issue, but it can't be as the trigger is locked up with this side plate off...
 
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Mr Calfee: Counterintuitive but maybe worth a try

Based on your last paragraph which is obviously true ...

By the way, there's a deep scratch near the top of the side plate lying beside the trigger....
This is where the point of the middle lever is scraping the side plate as the transfer bar works up and down.....
At first I thought this might be the issue, but it can't be as the trigger is locked up with this side plate off...


I couldn't keep myself from relieving the side of the point of the middle lever where it touches the removable side plate. For triggers that are acting odd I cover the inside of the side plate with Dykem blue and put the side plate back on. I then cycle the trigger about twenty-five times or so and look at the inside of the side plate. If there are areas where the moving trigger parts have scraped off the Dykem from the inside of the side plate I will carefully remove all interference.

As you know recent B&A's have a boss on the sear (I guess) which is too tall and gets trapped between the side plates when tightened. Shortening the height of the boss by .002-.003" with a diamond file will make all the problems go away.

I realize my suggestion on the Jewell is hair brained but when the problem is not visually obvious you've got to try something. Lawrence Beasley
 
Friend LB

Based on your last paragraph which is obviously true ...

By the way, there's a deep scratch near the top of the side plate lying beside the trigger....
This is where the point of the middle lever is scraping the side plate as the transfer bar works up and down.....
At first I thought this might be the issue, but it can't be as the trigger is locked up with this side plate off...


I couldn't keep myself from relieving the side of the point of the middle lever where it touches the removable side plate. For triggers that are acting odd I cover the inside of the side plate with Dykem blue and put the side plate back on. I then cycle the trigger about twenty-five times or so and look at the inside of the side plate. If there are areas where the moving trigger parts have scraped off the Dykem from the inside of the side plate I will carefully remove all interference.

As you know recent B&A's have a boss on the sear (I guess) which is too tall and gets trapped between the side plates when tightened. Shortening the height of the boss by .002-.003" with a diamond file will make all the problems go away.

I realize my suggestion on the Jewell is hair brained but when the problem is not visually obvious you've got to try something. Lawrence Beasley



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Friend LB:



Thank you for your comments......they most certainly are not hair brained....




First of all, here's a picture.....


DSC00809%20-%20Copy%202.jpg




LB, the contact point at 2 has to be slightly to the right of the center line of 1.....as you view the picture.


This so the downward pressure of the firing pin on the transfer bar will cause lever 3 to kick forward so its foot will make contact with the trigger sear.




If the contact point at 2 isn't far enough to the right of the center line of 1, for some unknown reason, lever 3 will be locked solid, not allowed to be kicked forward by the pressure from the firing pin on the transfer bar.




In my opinion, this rare, freak occurrence is what happened to my trigger........and maybe several others over the years.




I've got some errands to run this morning......


Later I'll describe the test I ran in the atempt to validate my diagnosis of the problem with my trigger.



Your friend, BC







 
Have I solved my Jewel lock-up issue?

Have I solved my Jewel lock-up issue?


CYA friends:



Have I solved my Jewel lock-up issue?


Maybe.



Here's the spearment I've tried:



I cleaned the vertical lever with alcohol, then carefully cut a piece of a plastic band-aid and taped it on the back of this lever...


Now the pup on the idler lever contacts this piece of tape....


This causes the vertical lever to stand farther to the right of the center line between the pivot pin of the idler lever and the contact point for the vertical lever in the transfer bar.


DSC00810%20-%20Copy.jpg




This particular trigger has about a .030" gap between the tip of the foot of the vertical lever, and the trigger sear engagement surface of the trigger shoe proper.


This piece of band-aid reduced that gap by about .005"...........course it won't stay there for long...



____________________


What I've done changes nothing about the amount of sear engagement, or any other function of the trigger....


It simply moves the contact point between the idler lever and vertical lever farther to the right of the center line.


This makes the "knee action" take place easier when the transfer bar pushes down on the vertical lever, which transfers that pressure to the point of the idler lever.


This keeps the odd circumstance from happening when the center line closes up, why I don't know, and locks the vertical lever solid in place...


Which locks up the trigger, like I experienced a few days ago.


And by the way, other folks have experienced the same thing.......you close the breech bolt and pull the trigger, and the firing pin doesn't fall.



_____________________________



So how did the test go:


I've probably cycled this trigger 500 times since I installed the tape.........absolutely flawless functioning.


Now.......................................



For you CYA folks who deal with heat treating:


How do I make this fix permanent?


Without altering the hardness of the vertical lever?


Or, the pup on the idler lever could be extended........either way would work.



It looks like I need about .005" added permanently, while maintaining hardness, to either the pup on the idler lever or the lower back side of the vertical lever.


Your friend, BC........


_________________


EDIT:



DSC00809%20-%20Copy%204.jpg
 
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Maybe

Hi Bill

A maybe answer
How about super gluing a .005" Stainless Steel shim onto the back of the vertical piece (more surface area for the glue) ????????

But before that how about polish everything in this area including the side plates to a shiny finish.
Capture1.JPG

Regards
Graham
 
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Friend Deveng

Hi Bill

A maybe answer
How about super gluing a .005" Stainless Steel shim onto the back of the vertical piece (more surface area for the glue) ????????

But before that how about polish everything in this area including the side plates to a shiny finish.
View attachment 1545

Regards
Graham


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Friend Deveng:


I got at least 500 cycles with a piece of band-aid.......so gluing a piece of stainless to the back would probably last forever, as long as the glue didn't deteriorate from solvent getting into the trigger....


The point at the top of the vertical lever centers in the bottom of the "V" when the bolt is closed.



I circled the areas of these two levers in red, that must be glass hard...


The pup doesn't need to be......it's simply a positioning stop for the vertical lever....



Friend Deveng, I want to figure out how to make this fix permanent.......so it will last the life of the trigger.


Your friend, BC



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